Camino Invierno – The Winter Way

The Camino Invierno is the traditional way to Santiago de Compostela for pilgrims arriving in the late Autumn and winter. The Os Ancares mountains are the great divide between Castille-Leon and Galicia which can often become snowbound during the winter months.

So the Camino Invierno, the “Winter Way” was used – leading travellers around the snow-capped peaks of Cebreiro. It meets up with the last few miles of the Via de la Plata Sanabres to arrive by way of the most attractive approach to the great city, where you pass through the last remaining ancient pilgrim gate.

Despite its title, the best times for this Camino are Spring and Autumn when the terraced vineyards are at their most spectacular with radiant colours.

It’s also recommended throughout the summer months when the Camino Frances becomes very busy.

The Winter Road shadows the natural channel that marks the Sil River, this is a historic path that links Galicia with the Castilian-Leonese plain. The route has been used throughout history, from the Romans, Napoleon’s troops and the first railway line to enter Galicia from Palencia.

There are two particular highlights to look forward to on the Winter Way. The route crosses the archaeological park of Las Médulas, declared World Heritage site.

You will also cross a large part of the Ribeira Sacra, dotted with the largest number of Galician Romanesque churches, many of them located in the impressive canyons of the River Sil and the slopes of the Miño river. This region produces excellent wines grown on vertiginous terraces.

Las Medulas
Once you’ve left Ponferrada, the way continues on a gentle ascent towards Las Médulas, passing through small settlements.

Las Médulas is a place to pause a while and wonder at the spectacular archaeological structures made by Roman gold miners and has Unesco World Heritage status.

There is a visitor centre in Puente de Domingo Flórez demonstrating how the Romans used water pressure to extract huge amounts of gold. They used more than 100 km of channels to drive water to Las Medulas and wash away the soil and expose the gold deposits.

Romanesque Architecture
There are many Romanesque bridges and chapels dotted through the countryside along the way.

Ribeira Sacra
Drop into the Bodgea Via Romanawinery on the way to Chantada. Apart from visiting the tiny historic churches dotted along the way, one experience a pilgrim should not overlook is the chance to visit an excellent winery and sample the wonderful Ribeira Sacra wine.

The Via Romana winery beautifully represents the life and history of the area, in an idyllic setting just outside Chantasa. This is a lovely place for a weary pilgrim to stop, catch his breath and sample the delicious wine in the very land where it was made.

La Ribeira Sacra is one of Spain’s least known areas. Its rivers, the Miño and Sil, have carved the landscape into deep canyons, thick with forests that hide medieval monasteries & tiny ancient churches. It’s a spiritual place where it’s not too hard to imagine yourself a medieval pilgrim. Wine is the area’s number one export. The valley slopes are lined with ancient terraces of vines. You can take a mesmerising trip down the rivers from one of the catamaran stations in Monforte or Chantada and really admire this surprising landscape.

For any traveller on the Camino, nourishment and refreshment is an important part of the daily routine. There are many places to enjoy good local dishes to suit a variety of tastes and budgets. We also aim to cater for those with particular dietary needs.

Breakfast
Where available we always order a full breakfast spread for our clients. But it does vary between establishments. Whether you have a light or substantial offering, you can always top up mid-morning at cafe bars along the route. The Spanish habit is to have breakfast between 10 and 11 when cafes and bars fill with locals having their “desayuno”.

Lunches
Lunches on the Camino are often taken as picnics, and most places have local shops selling items of fresh local produce to purchased each morning before you set out on the trail. Certain lodgings will offer pre-ordered packed lunches. Or check your guide and plan to stop off in a cafe-bar or restaurant on the Way.

Dinner
Spanish people tend to have dinner from 9 pm. But on the Camino, dinner is usually served from 8 pm — so do take advantage of the habitual afternoon “merienda” to keep you going, once you have arrived at your daily destination. That could be cold beer “cerveza” and tapas or coffee and cake.

Hydration
Hydration is essential — carry between 1.5 and 3l of drinking water, depending on the season, temperatures and distance you plan to cover. Keep a sugary and salty snack handy in your pocket or daypack – this will give you that little extra burst of energy to keep you going.

Mid morning/afternoon snacks known as “merienda” are the perfect way to sustain yourself on the Way. Especially if you are not used to the later meal times which are the norm across Spain. It is customary for Spanish people to have a mid-morning stop for breakfast and late afternoon for a bite to keep them going until the traditional late dinner.

Ribeira Sacra Wine
The interior of Galicia has a system of two mighty rivers the Miño and the Sil. Both formed a landscape of abrupt canyons mixed with native forests and Mediterranean species, due to its particular microclimate. This has made vine cultivation very successful, despite the need to plant vines on narrow hand-built terraces that seem to defy gravity.

In Monforte de Lemos you might like to visit the Viña da Ribeira Sacra Interpretation Center.
Set in a historic building, the centre shares all the secrets of local wine production. There are audiovisual presentations, photography, sculpture and painting all brought together to showcase the diversity and richness of the Ribeira Sacra.

Galician Gastronomy
In Galicia, fish and seafood are the stand-out stars of the show. Locally sourced from the hundreds of miles of coastline, river estuaries by local fishermen – you will not find better seafood anywhere in the world. And the variety is astonishing. Prized above all are the goose-necked barnacles – percebes, crabs, lobsters, clams and mussels – they are all simply, beautifully and freshly prepared. Galician fish stews are superb and the iconic Pulpo Gallego – paprika spiced octopus – is truly delicious.

Then, of course, we can talk about the world-class beef, pork and dairy herds that bring such breadth to the menu – succulent cuts of local beef and pork prepared by masterly chefs following both traditional and avant-garde culinary styles.

Vegetarian and vegan guests are also catered for in a region that highly values growing much of its delicious vegetables.

All of this is accompanied by a wide range of local wines, beers and ciders.