Camino Invierno (The Winter Way)

The Camino Invierno, or “Winter Way,” is the traditional route to Santiago de Compostela for pilgrims travelling in late autumn and winter.  In medieval times, this alternative route was essential for pilgrims who found the Camino Frances blocked by heavy snowfall. They could switch to this lower Camino when the pass up to O’Cebreiro was closed by snow. 

You can walk this Camino in winter time, but only from Monforte de Lemos, due to the weather and seasonal hotel closures.

The Camino Invierno guides travellers from Ponferrada through the natural wonder of Las Medulas nature park and around the southern side of the Os Ancares range. Eventually, it merges with the final stretch of the Camino Sanabres to reach Santiago de Compostela. This route offers one of the most scenic approaches to Santiago and has the added experience of passing through the last remaining ancient pilgrim gate.

Despite its name, the best times to walk the Camino Invierno are in spring and autumn, when the terraced vineyards display their most vibrant colours. And there are a couple of excellent small bodegas you must visit for a tour and tasting. It’s also a great option in summer when the Camino Frances becomes crowded and even the option of a short winter itinerary!

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The Winter Road traces the Sil River, a historic route connecting Galicia with the Castilian-Leonese plain, used by Romans, Napoleon’s troops, and the first railway into Galicia.

Key highlights include the UNESCO World Heritage site of Las Médulas and the Ribeira Sacra region, home to numerous Galician Romanesque churches, many set within the dramatic canyons of the Sil and Miño Rivers. The region is also famous for its wines, grown on steep terraces.

Las Médulas

After leaving Ponferrada, the path gently ascends to Las Médulas, passing small settlements. This UNESCO site features impressive archaeological structures created by Roman gold miners. A visitor center in Puente de Domingo Flórez explains the Roman technique of using water channels to extract gold.

Romanesque Architecture

The route features Romanesque bridges and chapels, offering glimpses of medieval history.

Ribeira Sacra

On your way to Chantada, visit the Via Romana winery, where you can rest and enjoy Ribeira Sacra wine. The region’s deep river canyons, lined with vineyards and hidden medieval monasteries, create a spiritual atmosphere reminiscent of medieval pilgrimages. A boat trip from Monforte or Chantada reveals the stunning landscape.

For any traveller on the Camino, nourishment and refreshment is an important part of the daily routine. There are many places to enjoy good local dishes to suit a variety of tastes and budgets. We also aim to cater for those with particular dietary needs.

Breakfast
Where available we always order a full breakfast spread for our clients. But it does vary between establishments. Whether you have a light or substantial offering, you can always top up mid-morning at cafe bars along the route. The Spanish habit is to have breakfast between 10 and 11 when cafes and bars fill with locals having their “desayuno”.

Lunches
Lunches on the Camino are often taken as picnics, and most places have local shops selling items of fresh local produce to purchased each morning before you set out on the trail. Certain lodgings will offer pre-ordered packed lunches. Or check your guide and plan to stop off in a cafe-bar or restaurant on the Way.

Dinner
Spanish people tend to have dinner from 9 pm. But on the Camino, dinner is usually served from 8 pm — so do take advantage of the habitual afternoon “merienda” to keep you going, once you have arrived at your daily destination. That could be cold beer “cerveza” and tapas or coffee and cake.

Hydration
Hydration is essential — carry between 1.5 and 3l of drinking water, depending on the season, temperatures and distance you plan to cover. Keep a sugary and salty snack handy in your pocket or daypack – this will give you that little extra burst of energy to keep you going.

Mid morning/afternoon snacks known as “merienda” are the perfect way to sustain yourself on the Way. Especially if you are not used to the later meal times which are the norm across Spain. It is customary for Spanish people to have a mid-morning stop for breakfast and late afternoon for a bite to keep them going until the traditional late dinner.

Ribeira Sacra Wine
The interior of Galicia has a system of two mighty rivers the Miño and the Sil. Both formed a landscape of abrupt canyons mixed with native forests and Mediterranean species, due to its particular microclimate. This has made vine cultivation very successful, despite the need to plant vines on narrow hand-built terraces that seem to defy gravity.

In Monforte de Lemos you might like to visit the Viña da Ribeira Sacra Interpretation Center.
Set in a historic building, the centre shares all the secrets of local wine production. There are audiovisual presentations, photography, sculpture and painting all brought together to showcase the diversity and richness of the Ribeira Sacra.

Galician Gastronomy
In Galicia, fish and seafood are the stand-out stars of the show. Locally sourced from the hundreds of miles of coastline, river estuaries by local fishermen – you will not find better seafood anywhere in the world. And the variety is astonishing. Prized above all are the goose-necked barnacles – percebes, crabs, lobsters, clams and mussels – they are all simply, beautifully and freshly prepared. Galician fish stews are superb and the iconic Pulpo Gallego – paprika spiced octopus – is truly delicious.

Then, of course, we can talk about the world-class beef, pork and dairy herds that bring such breadth to the menu – succulent cuts of local beef and pork prepared by masterly chefs following both traditional and avant-garde culinary styles.

Vegetarian and vegan guests are also catered for in a region that highly values growing much of its delicious vegetables.

All of this is accompanied by a wide range of local wines, beers and ciders.